Müller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese 2007
An amazingly mineral nose leads to a riot of salt and tangerine and green tea and just psychedelic expressiveness; a constant duel-to-the-death between the green stony side and the Kama Sutra orange side, and the thing doesn't stop until it's crashing and foaming as long as you can bear to hold it in your mouth; the finish is like those odd little blossoms that somehow poke out through the rocks.
This terrific spätlese features honey and spice and everything nice. This turns the clever trick of being sweet without being fruity, offering up complex umami-like flavors alongside touches of brown sugar. It's creamy through the midpalate yet finishes with vibrant acidity, making it easy to drink.
Rich sweetness wraps around the apricot, rose and vanilla pastry flavors. Yet there's no shortage of acidity, and the finish is tangy. Drink now through 2020.