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Domaine de Montille Volnay les Taillepieds 2017
Volnay "Les Taillepieds" has little to envy the great wines of the Côte de Nuits : it is a model of aromatic purity, of precision and of structural exactness. The nose is highly defined, precise, pure, often floral and always mineral and spicy. The mouthfeel is robust with a tannic frame that is strict, dense and minerally.
All of these elements - the minerality, the purity, the structure and the elegance, evoke the image of a Cistercian building, like the abbeys that seem to defy time. Effectively, a "Taillepieds" can age and shine for decades.
The 2017 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru, 100% whole clusters, has an outstanding bouquet with complex raspberry, wild strawberry and crushed stone aromas - all very engaging and sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, plenty of red fruit here, tightening up towards quite a structured and backward finish. It deserves several years in bottle but it should turn out a fine Taillepieds (like the 1985 recently tasted.)
Score: 92-94, Neal Martin, January 2019
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